Outdoor Bunnies

traditional climbing gear

As I described in my profile, I gradually discovered rock climbing in the context of mountaineering in Switzerland.  Several years ago, I began to lead climbing in France in the Alps and since then, continue to experience the amazing multi-pitch routes that Ailefroide has to offer.

My first taste of traditional climbing in the Gunks, about 2 years ago, was rather anti-climatic for me. I found most things about it slow moving such as placing protection and setting anchors; it was difficult to establish a rhythm. I struggled with impatience when belaying. When finally it came time to climb, I was intimidated by the exposed traverses and roof moves. In terms of landscape, I was not inspired in the way I was in the French Alps. And what is 3 pitches anyway? Do they call this a view, with no glacier in sight?

I guess I was discouraged because I felt that trad. as a type of climbing that I could not connect with; too many variables that were either intimidating or that didn’t resonate in me. Nonetheless, I decided to pursue it since it’s the key that unlocks the door to many world-class climbing sites in the U.S. and around the world. With some reluctance, I decided to put myself to the task.

This past fall, things changed. Despite the abundant rain this fall, I was able to get to the Gunks a few times. I had been there several times over the last 2 years, but intermittently. Over Labor Day weekend I experienced what they call in French un déclic. We would say something clicked for the first time. I was climbing Bloody Mary and was leading the 2^nd pitch of 5.6. It was a traverse under a roof and then a moderate crux move up to the anchor. Still a novice to leading in the Gunks, the roof looked intimidating to me and I felt unsure. Yet, as I began to traverse right, I moved steadily and with confidence. I moved step-by-step. I do not know if I was consciously thinking to myself “step-by-step” but I realized afterwards that a significant shift had occurred in my thinking. Up until that point, I often saw the larger daunting picture (the roof as a whole), and felt the pressure of having to execute the whole task all at once. This created anxiety in me. This time I experienced the freedom of proceeding step-by-step, just being responsible for each movement, one at a time. As I climbed, I was attentive without being anxious. I was relaxed and confident. I began to enjoy myself, prior to arriving at the anchor…

Somehow, climbing the Blood Mary roof was pivotal for me and my relationship to traditional climbing. It captured a shift that had been taking place within me and that seemed to come to fullness in that moment: a move toward what Arno Ilgner calls an attitude of listening and openness (see note)

toward the reality of the situations that I encounter.

In regards to climbing trad. in the Gunks, the comparisons I made with my initial sport climbing experiences in France made it difficult for me to see what trad. had to offer. In essence, I was comparing apples to oranges and wanting the apple to taste like an orange. In reality, three pitches in the Gunks offer a wealth of opportunities for training, between placing protection, route finding and learning how to build natural anchors. In regards to rhythm, although placing gear seemed to slow things down at first, I am now beginning to feel this different rhythm as I climb. And when it comes to the roofs, I am learning to engage the process rather than obsessing over the outcome. Breaking things down and taking one move at a time was the key for me. Also, in letting go of preconceived expectations of trouble that I might encounter in the crux, I am more able to read and respond to the rock spontaneously as it presents itself.

As I continue to climb (trad. or other), I hope to cultivate this spirit of listening and openness. It will enable me to climb with greater depths of freedom and confidence, and with a genuine appreciation for any context that I find myself in. If the Bloody Mary roof is any indication of things to come, I will be looking for more.

trad climbing at Gunks

note: Ilgner, Arno, The Rock Warrior’s Way, La Vergne, TN:  Desiderata Institute, 2006.