Outdoor Bunnies

traditional climbing gear

As I described in my profile, I gradually discovered rock climbing in the context of mountaineering in Switzerland.  Several years ago, I began to lead climbing in France in the Alps and since then, continue to experience the amazing multi-pitch routes that Ailefroide has to offer.

My first taste of traditional climbing in the Gunks, about 2 years ago, was rather anti-climatic for me. I found most things about it slow moving such as placing protection and setting anchors; it was difficult to establish a rhythm. I struggled with impatience when belaying. When finally it came time to climb, I was intimidated by the exposed traverses and roof moves. In terms of landscape, I was not inspired in the way I was in the French Alps. And what is 3 pitches anyway? Do they call this a view, with no glacier in sight?

I guess I was discouraged because I felt that trad. as a type of climbing that I could not connect with; too many variables that were either intimidating or that didn’t resonate in me. Nonetheless, I decided to pursue it since it’s the key that unlocks the door to many world-class climbing sites in the U.S. and around the world. With some reluctance, I decided to put myself to the task.

This past fall, things changed. Despite the abundant rain this fall, I was able to get to the Gunks a few times. I had been there several times over the last 2 years, but intermittently. Over Labor Day weekend I experienced what they call in French un déclic. We would say something clicked for the first time. I was climbing Bloody Mary and was leading the 2^nd pitch of 5.6. It was a traverse under a roof and then a moderate crux move up to the anchor. Still a novice to leading in the Gunks, the roof looked intimidating to me and I felt unsure. Yet, as I began to traverse right, I moved steadily and with confidence. I moved step-by-step. I do not know if I was consciously thinking to myself “step-by-step” but I realized afterwards that a significant shift had occurred in my thinking. Up until that point, I often saw the larger daunting picture (the roof as a whole), and felt the pressure of having to execute the whole task all at once. This created anxiety in me. This time I experienced the freedom of proceeding step-by-step, just being responsible for each movement, one at a time. As I climbed, I was attentive without being anxious. I was relaxed and confident. I began to enjoy myself, prior to arriving at the anchor…

Somehow, climbing the Blood Mary roof was pivotal for me and my relationship to traditional climbing. It captured a shift that had been taking place within me and that seemed to come to fullness in that moment: a move toward what Arno Ilgner calls an attitude of listening and openness (see note)

toward the reality of the situations that I encounter.

In regards to climbing trad. in the Gunks, the comparisons I made with my initial sport climbing experiences in France made it difficult for me to see what trad. had to offer. In essence, I was comparing apples to oranges and wanting the apple to taste like an orange. In reality, three pitches in the Gunks offer a wealth of opportunities for training, between placing protection, route finding and learning how to build natural anchors. In regards to rhythm, although placing gear seemed to slow things down at first, I am now beginning to feel this different rhythm as I climb. And when it comes to the roofs, I am learning to engage the process rather than obsessing over the outcome. Breaking things down and taking one move at a time was the key for me. Also, in letting go of preconceived expectations of trouble that I might encounter in the crux, I am more able to read and respond to the rock spontaneously as it presents itself.

As I continue to climb (trad. or other), I hope to cultivate this spirit of listening and openness. It will enable me to climb with greater depths of freedom and confidence, and with a genuine appreciation for any context that I find myself in. If the Bloody Mary roof is any indication of things to come, I will be looking for more.

trad climbing at Gunks

note: Ilgner, Arno, The Rock Warrior’s Way, La Vergne, TN:  Desiderata Institute, 2006.

Le Pigne d’Arolla, Switzerland

How did your outdoor adventures begin?

The beginning of my outdoor adventures: An Awakening

I remember very distinctly the first time I climbed a mountainous peak in the Swiss alps, le Pigne d’Arolla (3,796 meters), in 2000.  Although I felt like I would keel over due to exhaustion and that I would vomit on the spot, something was awaked within me through that experience. In writing this profile, I ask myself, what was it that was awakened? I believe it was the engagement of the created world in a meaningful way, the intensity of the physical challenge and the achievement of an audacious goal that is only possible through working together with others. I felt very strongly that there was much more to discover about myself, about the world around me, about others – about life.

This first mountaineering course was the springboard for me to pursue further alpine experience. Over recent years, I have had the privilege of gaining more training in France and Switzerland in the context of their alpine clubs. I am a French teacher and bilingual, which has opened many doors. In recent years, have become an assistant leader in summer mountaineering camps for French and Swiss adolescents. It has been in the context of these camps that I have discovered rock climbing which has become a growing passion of mine and the focus of my outdoor experience. Recent winters have also initiated me into ice-climbing, another activity that I look forward to pursuing in upcoming seasons.

Why do you love the outdoors?  What kind of outdoor activities are your favorites and what do you learn through them?

El Portrero Chico, Mexico

Climbing: A School for Life

The outdoors has become a school of life for me in which I learn so much about myself, about the world around me, and about life. I am passionate about rock climbing in particular, a pursuit which resonates deeply with who I am. It has become an activity through which I learn lessons that are relevant to my life experience, in concrete ways. Learning to taking risks, to trust, to face fears and to let go, represent just a few. Taking risks: It is through taking risks that we discover new things. Risks take me outside of my comfort zone and when I assess and commit to them, I open myself to growing. Trust: trust is not easy in life. Through climbing, I have the opportunity to practice trust, whether it’s trusting my belayer, my assessment of a situation or my own feet!  Facing fears: I believe we all face some form of fear in our lives. Opportunities to face fears and go beyond them in climbing are abundant! When I commit to an intimidating move or embrace a hold that makes me feel uneasy, I am going beyond my fear. When I place protection while traditional climbing or when I must climb despite fear of a lead fall – each of these initiatives cultivates new depths of courage within me. Finally, letting go…perhaps the toughest lesson for me. Although there are times when letting go would be unwise in a climbing context, there are other moments when letting go is essential. For example, leaving a comfortable hold in order to move forward on a route is a most uncomfortable feeling because I am leaving my comfort zone; I am releasing control of a comfortable situation. Yet not doing so prevents me from moving forward on the route. Although the loss of this control can often feel (extremely!) disconcerting, I find that it is ultimately liberating. The very tangible act of letting while climbing, has helped me identify the things that I need to release in my personal life. It also contributes to the strength I need to do this. Ironically, I find that often it is fear that I am letting go of!

What do you hope to bring to the community of outdoor women as a contributor to Outdoor Bunnies?

• to share my passion for and knowledge of the outdoors, as well as the ways my outdoor experiences have changed me
• to provoke reflection and discussion among women about how engaging in outdoor activities affects their life experience

• To encourage women of all ages to discover more about themselves through climbing; their body, their mind and their emotions
• To initiate women into lead climbing and into long multi-pitch sport routes.

• to affirm girls and women in their identity through accomplishing goals that they thought they thought were unattainable
• to continue to learn and grow in knowledge of the outdoors and personally, along side of other women and men, through our shared outdoor experiences

Szu-Ting (right) and me (left). Red Rocks, Nevada, 2007